MITKA

Service Omega Seamster De Ville calibre 321

IMG_0172 Often overshadowed by the moonlight of the Speedmaster, the Seamaster chronograph was meant for the sporty gentleman. I bought this watch from it’s original owner and he told me he wanted something he could wear for rally racing, swimming and still look smart at dinner parties. The watch was worn for 20 years and then left in a drawer for the next 30. It’s running like a dog and the chronograph is not engaging.
IMG_0174

Yuck the case back gasket has melted.. Well that confirms the story that it has not been used in a long time, but the movement looks excellent.

IMG_0175

No wonder it is not keeping time. One of the hairspring coils is tangled in the regulator pins.

IMG_0177

Dial has some marks, but overall looks very nice.

IMG_0178

Dial and hands removed. Everything looks to be in excellent condition.

IMG_0185

Here you can get a better view of the hairspring. It must have received a proper shock at one point.

IMG_0187

Best way to tackle the issue was unscrewing the boot from the balance cock and then carefully lifting the balance cock out, freeing the coil from the regulator pin. It worked and the hairspring is completely undamaged.

IMG_0190

Now that the balance issue is sorted, I can start taking the movement apart.

IMG_0197

I start with the top chronograph layer.

IMG_0209

Almost down to the base movement. Everything looking very nice.

It’s important not to forget the crown wheel underneath the train bridge.

IMG_0224

Here you can see the gear train layout.

IMG_0232

Lastly I take the hour recorder and setting/winding mechanism.

IMG_0252

All the parts are put into the cleaning machine baskets for cleaning.

IMG_0264

All the parts cleaned and ready to be put back together.

P1030590

Clean mainspring in the barrel.

P1030594

I see that the balance moves freely after fitting the balance jewels.

P1030596

I have put the gear train, setting lever/winding mechanism back in place. However I can’t wind the movement before fitting the hour recorder bridge as it also holds the lower barrel arbor pivot.

P1030599

I fit the lower hour recorder mechanism.

P1030597

I can now see that the gear train moves freely.

P1030601

I start putting the chronograph bits back together.

P1030602

All back together and running like it should.

P1030615

It’s not always straight forward.. After fitting the dial and hands I noticed I had one large screw remaining in my parts tub. That was the screw that prevents the setting lever from unscrewing too far when removing the setting lever. Second time I fitted the dial and hands the hour recorder was creeping.

P1030614

Third time lucky and the dials and hands are back in place.

P1030617

Movement put back into the case looking great.

P1030621

Very elegant sports watch.

2 Responses to Service Omega Seamster De Ville calibre 321

  1. RyMoeller says:

    Lovely Seamaster- it reminds me a bit of the Movado Sub Sea chronograph (which is also lovely). The whole thing is in fantastic condition too. Makes one quite envious. ;o)

    Nice job sorting out that hairspring without any damage. I image a replacement would be impossible to source.

    • mitka88 says:

      Yes it’s a great watch! And I’m happy it has not been slaughtered for a common speedy! I would not want to fork out for a new hairspring considering what they go for:D

Leave a Reply

Discover more from Mitka's vintage watch service.

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading