Just as the Great and Powerful Wizard of Oz admonished Dorothy to “pay no attention to the man behind the curtain,” many big name watch brands shroud their histories in mystery in an attempt to project an aura of quality and exclusivity. While today many increasingly claim to employ so-called “in-house” movements, in fact many of the most prestigious vintage brands routinely sourced components and movements from external producers – Audemars Piguet and Cartier representing just two prominent examples. Indeed, some may find it surprising to learn that other top brands sourced fully assembled watches from external producers, including Rolex.
Among the most prominent of such movement producers, yet among the least known today, was Marc Favre & Cie. Though content with its back-stage casting for much of its long history, Marc Favre played a leading role establishing and enhancing the reputations of many prominent brands ranging from Bulova and Gruen, to Alpina, Universal Genève and Omega – not to mention occasional guest appearances with esteemed luxury jewelers such as Gübelin, Türler, and Mappin & Webb.
Foundational Years
The “Marc Favre” trademark reportedly was registered in 1896 by Favre Frères in Cormoret, Switzerland (located in the Canton of Bern’s French-speaking Jura mountain region), owned by Marc Favre’s father Alfred Constant Favre. Shortly after 1900, by some accounts 1905, Marc Favre had departed to form Marc Favre et Cie in the village of Madretsch, later incorporated into the city of Bienne (Biel). The nearby rail junction contributed to Bienne’s development as a watchmaking center, and soon Marc Favre & Cie gained a strong reputation for high quality lever escapement movements, initially specializing in small movements for ladies’ watches, some marketed under the company’s Siva brand.
While most manufactures of the era focused on pocket watches, London-based watch retailer Hans Wilsdorf was among the earliest advocates of men’s wristwatches. But wristwatches required much smaller movements, which were more challenging to manufacture. Thus, Wilsdorf contracted with another Bienne producer specialized in small ladies’ watch movements, Jean Aegler, to supply fully cased wristwatches for his premium “Rolex” wristwatch brand registered in 1908.
Marc Favre & Cie was another early advocate of wristwatches, as illustrated by this early “Geneva” branded model in a case measuring 25mm without crown, employing a nicely finished Siva calibre 256. According to one report, by 1913 Marc Favre offered a 9 ligne lever movement, and by 1922 was producing watches featuring Breguet hairspring with small movements in sizes ranging from 5 to 13 lignes – ahead of many competitors of the era, along with Aegler, Marc Favre’s Bienne neighbor.
But Marc Favre & Cie quickly found its calling supplying movements to other established brands, specializing in high-quality smaller-sized precision movements and ébauches (partially assembled movements, typically finished by a watch assembly factory or établisseur).
Early Bulova Connection
Established in New York City by Joseph Bulova in 1875, Bulova was among the earliest US watch producers to employ Swiss movements. Bulova reportedly commenced watch component production and assembly in Bienne, Switzerland in 1912 – during the early years of wristwatch production. Notwithstanding later claims Bulova produced Swiss movements in house at their factory established in Bienne, some collectors and historians believe Marc Favre & Cie was among Bulova’s earliest suppliers of ébauches – and possibly even finished movements, as suggested by the dual-signed Bulova-MF movement depicted below.
By 1920, Marc Favre & Cie movements have been documented in Bulova-branded ladies’ wristwatches. Examples include the well regarded 17 jewel Rubaiyat and 15 jewel Precision models, with movements co-signed in various combinations including Bulova W.Co and Favre W.Co, Rubaiyat and Marc Favre, Bulova and Marc Favre W.Co, etc. Thus, regardless whether or not the relationship continued longer term, it appears well documented Marc Favre contributed to Bulova’s growth and reputation for quality at least during Bulova’s early years.
Gruen Guild Affiliation
Commencing around 1925, Marc Favre’s sons Robert-Marc, Paul, and Jean Favre joined the family business. By 1929 Paul Favre assumed management of the company, Marc Favre passed away in 1930. By this time Marc Favre & Cie had become a member of the Gruen guild – like Bulova, Gruen was among the earliest US watch producers to employ Swiss movements.
German watchmaker Dietrich Gruen commenced watch assembly in Columbus, Ohio in 1874, initially employing movements imported from Switzerland and Glashütte. By the early 1900s, Gruen had established a Swiss subsidiary in Bienne, initially teaming with esteemed Swiss movement supplier Aegler (dba Manufacture des Montres Rolex & Gruen Guild A), at that time exclusive supplier to Rolex and Gruen. As the reader may have guessed by now, collectors also have established an early connection between Marc Favre and Gruen, perhaps not surprising given their mutual location in Bienne.
Gruen Guild “M” (Marc Favre) calibre 153
The Ca 1926 5.5 x 10 ligne Gruen calibre 840 “extra precision” movement is believed to have been sourced from Marc Favre, for example, as is Gruen Cal 153 represented by movement No 22 in the MF diagram depicted above. The 153 bears design similarities to Gruen Cal 157, No 23 in the same MF diagram. Although far from consistent, some Gruen Guild movements were stamped with a letter indicating the source factory, e.g. “A” referencing Aegler and “M” signifying Marc Favre as illustrated on the calibre 153 specimen above.
Gruen Guild M calibre 157, and Marc Favre 1925 Swiss patent diagram
Among others, the late and sorely missed Dr Roland Ranfft documents the Ca 1925 Gruen/Marc Favre calibre 157 as equating to Alpina Cal 768. The MF 157 is notable in several respects including its use by both Gruen and Alpina, but more so by its innovative design, perhaps analogous in some respects to the legendary Zenith calibre 135. Released in 1948, Zenith’s Cal 135 is renowned for its numerous observatory chronometer competition victories, derived in part from its innovative design accommodating a large balance wheel. Less known is the fact Marc Favre established Swiss and US patents in 1925 and 1929, respectively, for a small rectangular-tonneau precision movement design optimized to accommodate a larger balance wheel and mainspring barrel.
Such was the quality of MF’s Cal 157 that by the 1930s it also was being employed in luxury watches meticulously finished and retailed by the exclusive Lucerne jeweler, Gübelin. Like other premier jewelers such as Cartier and Türler, Gübelin sourced watches and movements from many top quality producers such as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, sometimes fully assembled and double-signed. Gübelin, however, also was an établisseur, sourcing ébauches from premium movement producers for assembly and finishing in luxury cases released exclusively under the Gübelin name. As a testament to its quality, Gübelin selected the MF 157 to power one of its Ca 1936 classic luxury tank models, housed in an elegant Swiss-hallmarked sterling silver Fabrique Niel-Huguenin Frères case.
Alpina & Universal Genève Era
Gruen combined with Alpina in 1929, contributing approximately twenty calibres before departing due to differences in pricing and marketing strategies – and conflicts with Rolex over use of Aegler movements in markets shared by Rolex and Alpina. By 1935 (1939 per another source) Gruen and Aegler withdrew from the Alpina guild, which reorganized again as Alpina Union Horlogère SA (AUHSA). Marc Favre & Cie, however, remained an AUHSA member for two decades; check out our Alpina history article for more on AUHSA.
During this era, Marc Favre reportedly developed ébauches in collaboration with Universal Genève. For example, although its origins are cloaked in mystery, the Ca 1935 MF/Gruen 485 also powered Universal tank models (designated UG 240). Other Marc Favre calibres shared with Universal include, among others, MF 555, 565, 585 and 595 (UG Cals 257, 258, 260 and 262/3).
Many of Marc Favre’s best known movements of this era also were supplied to Alpina. The MF/Alpina 595, also known as Universal 262 (sub-seconds) and 263 (sweep seconds), for example, was widely used in military watches including those distributed to the German military during WWII by AUHSA’s German affiliate, Deutsche Uhrmacher Genossenschaft Alpina GmbH, commonly known as Dugena. As depicted below the UG execution employed a bridge configuration which differed from the MF/Alpina/Siegerin executions, but which bears an interesting similarity to the earlier Marc Favre-Siva pendant watch movement depicted above.
From left to right: Universal Genève 262, Marc Favre 595, Siegerin 595
Alpina’s watches supplied to the Luftwaffe featured black dials with radium indices; the cases were marked with a D before the serial number, or in some cases DH although this was more commonly used for watches supplied to the Wehrmacht.
Universal Genève 262, Marc Favre 595, Siegerin 595
Alpina Watches supplied to the Kriegsmarine were of a similar style, featuring white dials with radium filled numbers. These models typically employed the initials “KM” on the dial, sometimes also including the Siegerin signature. The specimen depicted above is a rare Marc Favre-signed model with a dial similar to the KM variant, likely cased by Dugena given the “edelstahl boden” caseback engraving. The Universal Genève military-style model depicted above, by contrast, bears a black dial similar to the Alpina/Dugena Siegerin model but the UG was more often employed by Allied military forces.
Ca 1940s vintage Mappin & Webb featuring Marc Favre calibre 595
The MF 595 was not restricted only to military tool watch use, however. Indeed, like MF’s earlier calibre 157, the 595 was selected by an esteemed luxury jeweler, in this case Mappin & Webb of London, as documented by this Ca 1940s dual-signed Mappin model.
Universal Genève’s calibre 138/9 bumper automatic represents another interesting example of collaboration between Universal and Marc Favre. Introduced in 1948, the 138 was UG’s first entry into the automatic watch segment. At the time the industry remained inhibited by Rolex’s oscillating weight patent, hence marteau or hammer-style automatics represented the most popular work-around. Although not entirely clear who actually produced the movement for UG, it appears likely that either Marc Favre supplied the movements directly to UG, that Martel produced them for UG under license from MF, or that Marc Favre produced the movements and Martel decorated/engraved them for UG (the authors welcome any more precise information).
Universal Genève (Marc Favre) calibre 138 bumper automatic movement
By the time of its launch in 1948 this technology was close to obsolete given Felsa already bested the Rolex patent by introducing a bi-directional “Bidynator” autowinder with fully-oscillating rotor, and Eterna had launched their revolutionary ball-bearing rotor “EternaMatic” design. Further, by 1948 the Rolex patent was destined to expire in just two years. Fortunately for UG bumpers still were being sold well into the 1950s, and the MF-UG 138/9 held its ground until Universal replaced it in 1955 with an ultra-modern micro-rotor, the UG calibre 215.
In addition to having been employed by early Universal Genève Polerouters, the calibre 138/9 bumper automatic movement has been documented in a Polerouter-style case with a dial signed “Marc Favre Bienne,” seemingly confirming the MF-UG relationship and suggesting an MF role in the calibre’s fabrication as well as design.
Alpina (Marc Favre) calibre 598
Another of Marc Favre’s most iconic calibres of this era was the hand-wound calibre 592, and its sweep-seconds version Cal 598 depicted above in a Taubert-Borgel FB Vacuum-cased Alpina model. Similar in design to Cal 595, the 592/8 was employed in various Alpina sport watch models including the Alpina 70 (debuted in 1953), Standard (1958) and Tropicproof (1968). Widely considered among the most robust, accurate movements of the era, the MF-Alpina 592 was selected as an instructional calibre by the Bienne cantonal polytechnic watchmaking school. Alpina historical literature suggests Cal 592/8 was developed by Straub (AUHSA’s founding établisseur), but also reflects the calibre was produced by Mark Favre.
From Alpina to Omega – We’re Not in Bienne Anymore, Toto
Founded in La Chaux de Fonds in 1848, Omega moved to Bienne in 1880. To better compete with other watchmaking associations such as the Alpina guild, however, in 1930 Omega and Tissot formed Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère SA (SSIH), forerunner to the current Swatch Group, establishing the new corporate headquarters in Geneva.
By the 1950s SSIH also was sourcing movements from Marc Favre. Not surprisingly given Marc Favre’s recognized specialization in fine movements for small watches, its early contributions include the diminutive Cal 48X tonneau movements employed in a successful line of Omega ladies’ watches. Also reportedly sourced from Marc Favre were the hand-wound Cal 410/420 and similar 510/520 (sub and sweep seconds, respectively), widely used in Omega Seamaster models.
Omega Seamaster featuring Marc Favre calibre 500
But perhaps MF’s best-known contribution was to Omega’s full rotor self-winding movement lineup. Looking for a replacement for its bumper automatic movements, in 1954 Omega turned to Marc Favre’s Cal 470/71 25mm 360 degree full rotor automatic movement, produced exclusively for Omega and later evolving to the renowned 500 and 550 series calibres employed in Omega’s Seamaster and Constellation lines.
The mid-500 series chronometer calibres (i.e., 551, 561, 564 and 751) in particular are considered by some to represent the finest production movement family every produced. Indeed, resulting both from its elegant design to the attention paid to every detail of production, this Omega movement family holds the honor of having achieved one of the most exalted achievements in mechanical production watch history – the highest degree of chronometer certification for a consecutive series of 100,000 calibre 551 and 561 production watches submitted to the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres (predecessor to the contemporary Swiss COSC labs) over a two-year period from 1964 through 1966.
By 1955, Marc Favre & Cie SA became a full-fledged member of SSIH. Reflecting the esteem with which SSIH held Marc Favre’s movements, Robert-Marc Favre later became Administrative Delegate of Omega and Administrative Director of SSIH, in addition to his role as Marc Favre Watch Factory Administrative Director. Thus concluded the Bienne era.
Pulling Back the Curtain
From one perspective, by 1955 Omega’s Marc Favre-sourced movements might be considered to have been legitimately produced “in-house” – Omega’s calibre 610 powering the 1961 vintage dual-signed Tűrler Seamaster illustrated below representing an elegant example. That said, from another perspective it’s unclear whether Marc Favre’s decision to join SSIH made any real difference in the quality of Omega watches, given Omega arguably could have sourced movements from MF externally, as had Rolex from Aegler for many decades.
Tűrler-Omega Seamaster featuring calibre 610
One also might ask whether Marc Favre’s former membership in AUHSA qualified their movements as being “in-house” when incorporated in wristwatches bearing Alpina or Dugena branding. Moreover, one might ask how their affiliation with AUHSA may have impacted whether Universal Genève watches employing those same movements, or ébauches, might rightly be considered to have been manufactured in-house; whatever the value of such a moniker.
Just to further muddy those waters, while it’s unclear to what extent Marc Favre collaborated with Universal on development of movements supplied to both UG and AUHSA, Alpina historical documentation suggests this consultation included AUHSA’s founding member and captive établisseur, Straub & Cie. But one also might query whether this distinction is much ado about nothing, given outsourcing of various components and ébauches historically was, and to a significant extent still is, common practice across the industry.
Indeed, Marc Favre’s relationships with the likes of Alpina, Bulova, Gruen, Gübelin, Mappin, Omega and Universal is hardly unique. One example previously discussed is Aegler, exclusive external movement supplier to Rolex – and for a time to Gruen, and hence Alpina during the Alpina-Gruen guild combination (i.e., until the late 1930s) – before ultimately being acquired by Rolex as recently as 2004.
Gruen Guild “A” (Aegler) calibre 835 (Rolex 200)
The Gruen Guild “A” calibre 835 pictured above, for example, also is known as Alpina 835 and Rolex 200. At the time of its production it seems Alpina, Gruen and Rolex all benefitted from Aegler’s affiliation, as did their customers. But as with MF’s incorporation into SSIH, Rolex ultimately has benefitted from Aegler’s acquisition through the ability to market prestige and status, asserted to derive from exclusivity of in-house production. Whether the consumer has similarly benefitted may bear further scrutiny.
Another analogous example worth note is the relationship between Martel, Universal Genève and Zenith. Perhaps similarly to Marc Favre’s relationship with Alpina, Universal and Omega, there’s a consensus among collectors that Martel collaborated with Universal and Zenith on development of certain movements supplied to both brands. The Zenith calibre 156D depicted below, for example, also was employed in Universal chronographs (i.e., as UG Cal 285). Further, Martel and Marc Favre both ultimately were acquired by one of their client producers – Zenith in Martel’s case, Omega in the case of Marc Favre.
Zenith calibre 156D (Martel/UG 285)
Despite their exalted status as among the so-called “holy trinity” of watchmaking, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin also historically were well known to have employed ébauches produced by high-quality external sources such as LeCoultre & Cie (later Jaeger LeCoultre) and Venus, before transitioning to in-house manufacture in recent years. Respecting the point at hand, as elaborated in our Eterna history article, it also may be worth a reminder that Venus was itself acquired by Ebauches SA in 1928, joining ASUAG as a founding member in 1931, ultimately becoming housed under ETA, itself then becoming a part of Swatch Group following the 1983 merger of ASUAG and SSIH (the latter of which by then housed Marc Favre).
Vacheron Constantin calibre 454 (JLC 449 base)
This beautifully finished Vacheron Constantin calibre 454 presents an interesting case study. On one hand, VC 454 is widely considered among the venerable house of Vacheron’s most exquisite hand-wound movements of all time; and rightly so. This renowned movement, however, was based on JLC’s calibre 449, a variant of the 479 calibre which powered UK MOD WWW military watches – thus providing an illustration of both luxury and tool watch consumers having mutually benefitted from collaboration among assembler/finisher and component supplier.
From a marketing and profit maximization perspective, some brands today seem intent on cloaking their histories and production techniques in an aura of exclusivity, in part by touting “in-house” production. Another perspective might be that a less monopolistic supply chain structure could provide the potential for greater innovation and component uniformity across the industry and, hence, might provide at least the potential for greater value to consumers and to the industry in aggregate; albeit with less potential for profit maximization based on perceived exclusivity or status.
For what it’s worth, this was an underlying premise of associations such as AUHSA and SSIH, both initially founded in an effort to increase innovation, efficiency, quality, and component standardization in order to counter competitive pressures, thereby mutually benefitting producers and consumers through the full product lifecycle. But at the end of the day there’s no “right” answer; in-house production is neither inherently superior nor inherently inferior to a diversified component supply chain, both present benefits and tradeoffs.
Whatever one’s perspective might be on this point, it bears recognition that many of the best vintage and contemporary watch producers – of both tool and luxury varieties – have relied on high quality component and movement suppliers, ranging from the likes of Aegler, Jaeger Le Coultre and Martel to Venus, Valjoux and Lemania to cite just a few well respected examples.
By pulling back the curtain on Marc Favre’s role in establishing and strengthening the reputations of several of the industry’s premier vintage watch producers, the authors hope there remains no question that Marc Favre deserves recognition as warranting inclusion among the top tier of this esteemed group
The authors wish to express our deep gratitude for the valuable peer-review, substantive and editorial contributions graciously provided by M. Alexandre Goy (@enversteel); any errors or omissions, however, rightfully should be attributed entirely to the authors.
© 2024 P. Scott Burton & Mitka Engebretsen, all rights reserved.
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